It’s a short low running approach golf shot with overspin or bite used in approaching the green. Other terms used for chipping are:
Chip In – When your ball rolls into the cup after chipping, you hole out with a chip shot.
Chip-and-run – A chip shot intended to run the ball after landing.
Chili-dip – A mishit chip shot, the clubhead hitting the ground well before it hits the ball. 

If you wonder: when chipping? The answer is: in every situation within a few yards of the green. 

Chip Shot Golf Sequence

Basic Chip Shot Golf Tips 

This step by step chip shot checklist will help to drill and improve your chip shot techniques. 

1. Take a 6-, 7-, 8- or 9-iron or pitching wedge. 

2. Use your normal grip for this chip shot. 

3. Address the ball with a narrow stance. The ball placed more towards back foot. 

4. Open your feet and shoulders a little bit, not too wide. 

5. Lean your body a bit to the left of the pin. 

6. Keep your shoulders and your wrists firm, like you should hit with a putter. 

7. Hands ahead of the ball, inside your left thigh. Your left hand has to block the vision of your left knee. Right hand for lefthanded golfers. 

8. Lean your weight to your front foot. 

9. Aim the face of your lady golf club towards the target. 

10. Make a slow tempo swing with your arms and shoulders. Like you want to put. Your arms and shoulders move like a pendulum clock. 

11. Touch the ground – before you chip the ball. Crisps the grass. Accelerate through the ball and hit it off the toe of the club. Keep your hand ahead of the ball at impact. 

12. The follow through of a chip shot should have the same length as your back swing, as mentioned before, like a pendulum clock. A short back swing causes short distance chipping, a long one a longer traject. 

13. The golf club lifts the ball up in the air. Practice a lot, and you can make a perfect chip shot on the fairway within a reasonable distance to the pin. 

14. And: Don’t look up to early! I think that’s my most important tip for chip shot golf.

Avgolfer
http://www.articlesbase.com/golf-articles/basic-chip-shot-golf-tips-1078954.html

Every good golfer has the ability to control his or her shots. Every good golfer learns that it is one thing to swing a golf club, but it is another thing to know what position the club is in while it is being swung.

Well, once you learn the difference between letting your club fall open on the backswing and or keeping it closed, square, or in position as you make your swing, you will begin to play golf. Your shots start to go straighter, and you will begin to play golf as one ought to play it if you use each club for the shot or purpose for which it was designed.

1. A golf club will only do what the player makes it do.
2. Each club is designed for a specific purpose, and only when it is applied to the ball in its true, natural state will it produce the effect for which it was designed.
3. Basically, there are only three clubs in golf:
4. The driver shaped so that it drives the ball on a low trajectory and is therefore used for distance shots.
5. The iron, formerly called a lofter, does exactly what the name implies it lofts, or lifts the ball. This club is used to place the ball into position in certain spots on the fairway or on the green
6. The putter, which would be better named a roller, is so designed that it rolls the ball; therefore, it is the club used to accomplish the very purpose of the game roll the ball into the cup.

However, golfers are not limited or restricted to these three clubs. Golfers get themselves a set of two or three, more generally four, but sometimes even five, drivers. They carry a set of three or six, most generally a set of eight, irons. They usually add to this outfit a heavy weighted club to get the ball out of deep grass or sand traps. In addition, the above clubs, along with a putter, generally constitute the set of 14 clubs that a golfer is permitted to use in tournament play.

Now, having such an outfit is a perfect waste of material unless each and every club is swung in the same way so that the various differences in the shapes of the clubs can each perform their objectives. In other words, golf is an easy game to play, because the player has a specific club or tool for each shot or effect that is desired. All he has to do is to learn the one basic swing and apply it to each club.

By comparison, the game of tennis is difficult. In tennis, the player has only one club or one racquet, the ball is never in the same position it is either high or low, in front of him or behind him and to make his shots successfully the tennis player must learn and be able to play several different strokes. However, not so the golfer. If he correctly learns the one stroke, he can simply let the club do the work.

Jimmy Cox
http://www.articlesbase.com/golf-articles/golf-game-and-free-tips-to-improve-your-game-63292.html

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this is newer version

http://www.e3living.com/files/brill%20razorcut%2038%20rear%20view.jpeg

Indulge me as I vent this notice I received:

Question Details: If I was named Aidan in 1992, and now its seems that so many people have the name Aidan, will my once unique name be overlooked?
Deleted Answer: Wow. That seems like a serious problem. Would anyone click on my question below? It’s totally buried.
Violation Reason:Solicitation

Of course in this situation,on downhill slope much less force is needed to hole the ball.

My question is regarding a couple slightly uphill putts. They did not go hand in hand with the slick greens. They were hit with slightly less force than I usually hit for uphills and both landed 5-10 feet short.

1. Are the speed of the greens not a factor with uphills? I assumed just like a reg. putt on a fast green,you had to be careful and hit with a shorter pendulum.
or
2. Is this a normal part of golf course design-to make the greens more difficult/tougher to read? (On TV you see even the pros with the confused,w.t.f? look when a putt goes where it seems shouldn’t)
Putts were from around 20-25 feet

The speed of your putts has a lot to do with the grain of the green as well as more obvious factors like uphill/downhill.

Typically putts that go against the natural grain of the grass will require more force to go the same distance as a putt that goes with the grain.

Here’s a tip from a tutorial on reading greens: "Look at the green from all angles in the early morning or afternoon sun. Depending on how high the sun is you may have to squat down as low as possible to see the grain.

The noticeable sheen you see means that you are looking directly down or with the grain. Putts hit with the grain roll more smoothly than against the grain but, more importantly, they roll further."

Real grass can just be a pain watering and cutting.

here are a list of sites.

http://www.ask.com/bar?q=golf+putting+greens&page=1&qsrc=0&ab=1&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.synthetic-turf.com%2F

http://www.ask.com/bar?q=golf+putting+greens&page=1&qsrc=0&ab=2&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.backninegreens.com%2F

http://www.ask.com/bar?q=golf+putting+greens&page=1&qsrc=0&ab=4&u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.softrakgreens.com%2F

I am having some real trouble with my iron shots. I am a sophmore in high school and average about a 53 in our golf matches. The bad thing is i literally chunk 1 to 2 swings every hole. if i can get These shots shaved off then i think i can do a lot better. My drives are about 215 (i shoot a fade driver, not on purpose) and I putt 1-2 MAXIMUM. My Irons are really bringing my game down. I can hit my SW an easy 75 straight and my PW an easy 115 a little to the right. BUT MY DAMN 8 AND 6 IRON ARE CHUNK CHUNK OR MAJOR SLICEEEEE. I dont know what is wrong. Yes i could only afford a SW,PW,8 and 6, i plan on getting others later but for now this must suffice. Any advice???

Sure it has something to do with "coming over the top", also known as making your downswing from the outside in. It also has to do with coming down at a steep angle. It’s the combination of swing path and swing steepness that cause the chunk and/or slice. Here are a couple drills that will help:

(1) Make your swing more shallow.

— Another way of looking at this is to widen your swing, or don’t pick the club up so much with your hands/arms.

Drill – Start by placing a golf ball about 18 inches behind the golf ball you are about to hit. That’s 18 inches to the right of the ball you are going to hit (if u are right handed). Make sure your weight is centered and then begin your takeaway (start the backswing). Brush the grass with the bottom of your clubhead and maintain that until you knock the 2nd golf ball out of the way. This will ensure a smooth, shallow takeaway and minimize the steepness of your swing. Long story short, this will get rid of the chunks.

(2) Reverse swing path drill.

— If you are slicing the ball, you need to try a drill that reverses your current swing path, from outside in (across your body) to inside out…
… and from swinging at the ball, to swinging through the ball.

For a drill, try taking the club back on an outside path (think Fred Couples or Lee Trevino here, and if you don’t know those guys, find a video on youTube of one of them) and dropping it in and around your body as you swing through the ball. It’s almost like you’re trying to block a shot out to right field intentionally. The only difference is, you want to extend thru the ball at impact and don’t be afraid to release the club by turning your body thru to the finish of your swing.

So to summarize, drill #1 – put a 2nd golf ball about 18 inches behind the ball you want to hit. Make your backswing and be sure to brush the grass and knock the ball out the way in the backswing.

#2 Do the same as drill #1, but this time move the 2nd ball away from your body about 2 inches. Try and hit the 2nd ball again in your backswing and in doing so, your swing path should start outside of where it normally does. Re-route the club back to the inside and when you get to impact, be sure to swing thru the ball and release the club, kind of like cracking a whip thru the ball and at your target.

I hope this helps!